seven hours at beach
not a complaint or a fight
bus ride adventure
Fish
seven hours at beach
not a complaint or a fight
bus ride adventure
seven hours at beach
not a complaint or a fight
bus ride adventure
So this morning I started out my day with a simple plan, telling my husband I’d be back in an hour: I was going to retrieve my girls’ school registration papers from the cultural liaison at the school where I will work, go to the bank, and go to the girls’ school. The cultural liaison was meeting her colleagues at nine for some coffee before work. I pedaled over on my “American” bicycle (a Fuji, I would explain later, made in China like everything else!), and arrived right on time, right on American time. While waiting for the Spaniards to make their usually-tardy appearance, I took a photo of the dumpsters here. Strange, I know, and not typical of a tourist attraction. But the segregated dumpsters that specify glass, plastic, paper, and trash are what make this place special to me. For one thing, all residents have access to them at all times. For another, why can’t America do this–segregate our trash (I mean, we segregate everything else, right)?? Perhaps if more cities adopted this idea, everyone would recycle!
After I took my photo on my iPhone, a nice Spaniard approached me and introduced himself as one of my colleagues. He already knew my name–though I think I blend in quite easily here in my Western clothing, with dark, curly hair, standing next to my fancy bike with my fancy phone make me appear all-American–and of course his name was Carlos (I think there are only four Spanish men’s names!). We were still waiting on Flora, the cultural liaison, so I sat down and ordered another delectable café con leche. All the cafés on all the street corners carry these tiny cups of espresso-like coffee that is quite simply a culinary orgasm with every taste, and I have found myself quite addicted to them.
We sat with two other colleagues who immediately began chatting away with me in fast-paced Spanish. I have learned to nod a LOT. Because all I do is introduce myself in Spanish, say a few simple sentences, and everyone assumes I’m fluent! I picked up most of what they were saying, but by no means all! There were quite a few funny moments over the next hour, especially when I thought they were asking if my bike was made in America, and when I said it was made in China, they laughed and said, “No, did you bring it from America?” to which I affirmed and received the response, “Wow, you brought your husband, three daughters, and a bicycle to Spain? Very unusual!” I would have liked to have responded with, “You will find me unlike most people you know,” but of course with my lack of vocabulary I just nodded and said, “Sí,” my current favorite word.
Finally Flora came, papers in hand, but I was not allowed to leave. No, por supuesto! After a time they all stood up, I discovered the bill had been paid, and we began to walk across the street to the school. Since I don’t officially start my job until October 1st, I was not expecting to follow them. After all, it was already past ten, and the Spanish work day ends at two, and it being Friday, I knew that two meant one, and I had to register my girls in school and go to the bank. But one of them said, “Come with us, Karen,” and before I knew it, they were clearing a space for me at the huge table where all members of the English department were having a meeting.
It was with deflated hopes when I quickly realized that the English department does not hold their meetings in English. Instead, Flora took charge of a fast-paced meeting where everyone began talking at once, sharing ideas, writing down book titles and schedules in these tiny little planners (not a single laptop!!), and throwing my name into every other suggestion. (“Karen knows all about the American culture, she can teach us!” “Karen can make a notebook of different food and clothing of the US!” etc.).
It wasn’t until almost noon when I heard my first English words of the day. Carlos engaged me in a conversation so he could hear how I speak, and broke into a ginormous smile when I began to talk. “Your accent is so easy to understand! I don’t know anything about Colorado, but I like it very much! Last year our native speaker came from Northern Ireland, and no one could understand anything she said! You are our first American, and we are so glad to have you.”
So… I barely made it to the bank, where there was a line out the door (everyone is restrained by the siesta schedule), and by the time we walked over to the school at 1:30, the secretary was locking up the building. All the same, she took my papers, noted to her assistant, “These are the Americans!!” and told us, “See you Monday at nine!”
No matter where I go here, or what I do, it always takes longer than I think, and the people are always nicer than anyone I’ve met anywhere. I am just as much of an anomaly to them as they are to me, bringing our interchangeable experiences to a new side of an old coin.
not what i wanted
cuatro santos protect me
i pray this is right
i have no words
in English or Spanish
for the whirlwind of arrangements
(all before 11am)
to put my daughters in school in Spain
i have no words
for one week gone in my life
where all is lost, all is gained
with the turn of a key
a new home
a new country
a new way of looking at life
i have no words
there is not a summary
for besos on cheeks
encontado, encontado
(is my mucho gusto lost in Cartagena??)
for all the words i’ll never know
for the phone calls i try to make
the arrangements i think i understand
the important life choices i put in others’ hands
i have no words
to describe the
palm-tree-café-peluqueria-red-tile-roof
ciudad
now
my
home
Just a short list of all I didn’t know before arrival:
1. Grocery shopping is a complicated task. Let me introduce you to every type of seafood you’ve never seen, so stocked up it might take a week to identify each individual fish (hello, Mediterranean diet!). Then we can peruse the store and try to identify pictures that indicate the difference between dish soap and bathroom cleaner. Let’s move on to the dairy section. Wish me luck, because there are so many varieties of milk in this world, we will never be able to decipher which is the one (all unrefrigerated, I might add) that we will bring home. And kilos versus pounds? Help!!
2. Café, peluquería, café, peluquería. Repeat, repeat, repeat. But don’t you dare try to go to either between the hours of three and six. You may or may not receive service. But when you do enter, you will come out with beautiful hair and a belly full of fresh food and about the best coffee on the planet.
3. The world CAN function between the hours of 9 and 2. Set your alarm, strap on some excellent running shoes, and you just might make it to siesta on time. Or enjoy #2.
4. Tagalong to #3, rush hour is in the early afternoon. Watch where you’re driving—or walking—motos speed in between cars, and cars spin around roundabouts like there’s no lane and no tomorrow.
5. Everyone is nice. OK, OK, there might be one mean person in Spain. But I haven’t met him or her yet. They’re all accommodating, competent, know how to use the technology that none of them seem to have, and smile every time they see you stumbling over their native tongue. They will go out of their way to show you where to walk, to tell you how to fill out forms, to guide you along this intricate path of becoming one of them (but you will never be one of them).
6. Bed time for all ages is some time between 10 and 2. Usually more like 2.
7. There is an indescribable beauty to hanging laundry out the window of a courtyard shared by twenty neighbors, whose parrots perch and chirp, whose voices carry across in speedy Spanish that opens up the world to a better place.
8. Don’t buy a car. Gas costs more than you can even fathom, and there will be so many beautiful palm trees to walk under, so many types of architecture to admire, so many beautiful people to see along the street, that you’ll never notice the difference.
9. Make yourself a resident before making yourself a taxpayer. This order suits all.
10. Ayuntamiento: loosely translated: place of help. Courthouse, registration, school information. You will be guided to one ayuntamiento after another, but eventually, just like all things Spanish, you will arrive just where you need to be: Home.
I came all the way to Spain to have what Americans always want. Granite countertops. Eat-in kitchen. The ability to walk one block and buy fresh fruit, grass-fed beef, and hand-crafted beer. Mariscos that cannot be defined in our American Spanglish.
I couldn’t begin to describe how much this feels like home. How, after four months of turmoil and doubt, I am completely relaxed. We can sit on our balcony all night, watch passersby go to the night club, head downtown… we can look into the courtyard, smell the marijuana, and watch as our new neighbor shows his friend the various pots where he grows it. Somehow, laundry hanging from wires in the place we all share, this feels like home to me.
Don’t get me wrong. It is still, after four days, a tiny bit surreal. I mean, are we driving in roundabouts and searching for two-way streets? Are we really walking on travertine tile sidewalks and watching Spaniards meander by in soccer shirts? Are we ordering tapas and Amstel because we’re on vacation, or are we going to accept that this. Is. Now. Our. Home?
After fourteen years of marriage and nine and a half years of parenthood, we have picked up our family and moved to a country none of us have ever seen. For the most part, we don’t speak the language, though my girls and I like to pretend we do. We disseminate labeling and nod, “Sí, sí,” even if we do not understand. I signed a lease whose specifications I cannot identify, and our plan for Monday is to register as citizens, open a bank account, buy a cell phone plan, and enroll our girls in school. Inestimable for five people sans car, but I think we can make it happen.
If we could, on a whim and a prayer, place ourselves in this city without much of a job, little hope on the horizon, and find ourselves an apartment within twenty-four hours, I think this view of the rising moon between palm trees and clouds, the Citroen cars speeding past and the endlessly open cafes—they will take us where we need to land.
All is well. ¡Viva España!