Speechless in Spain

i have no words
in English or Spanish
for the whirlwind of arrangements
(all before 11am)
to put my daughters in school in Spain

i have no words
for one week gone in my life
where all is lost, all is gained
with the turn of a key
a new home
a new country
a new way of looking at life

i have no words
there is not a summary
for besos on cheeks
encontado, encontado
(is my mucho gusto lost in Cartagena??)
for all the words i’ll never know
for the phone calls i try to make
the arrangements i think i understand
the important life choices i put in others’ hands

i have no words
to describe the
palm-tree-café-peluqueria-red-tile-roof
ciudad
now
my
home

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Spanish Arrival List

Just a short list of all I didn’t know before arrival:

1. Grocery shopping is a complicated task. Let me introduce you to every type of seafood you’ve never seen, so stocked up it might take a week to identify each individual fish (hello, Mediterranean diet!). Then we can peruse the store and try to identify pictures that indicate the difference between dish soap and bathroom cleaner. Let’s move on to the dairy section. Wish me luck, because there are so many varieties of milk in this world, we will never be able to decipher which is the one (all unrefrigerated, I might add) that we will bring home. And kilos versus pounds? Help!!

2. Café, peluquería, café, peluquería. Repeat, repeat, repeat. But don’t you dare try to go to either between the hours of three and six. You may or may not receive service. But when you do enter, you will come out with beautiful hair and a belly full of fresh food and about the best coffee on the planet.

3. The world CAN function between the hours of 9 and 2. Set your alarm, strap on some excellent running shoes, and you just might make it to siesta on time. Or enjoy #2.

4. Tagalong to #3, rush hour is in the early afternoon. Watch where you’re driving—or walking—motos speed in between cars, and cars spin around roundabouts like there’s no lane and no tomorrow.

5. Everyone is nice. OK, OK, there might be one mean person in Spain. But I haven’t met him or her yet. They’re all accommodating, competent, know how to use the technology that none of them seem to have, and smile every time they see you stumbling over their native tongue. They will go out of their way to show you where to walk, to tell you how to fill out forms, to guide you along this intricate path of becoming one of them (but you will never be one of them).

6. Bed time for all ages is some time between 10 and 2. Usually more like 2.

7. There is an indescribable beauty to hanging laundry out the window of a courtyard shared by twenty neighbors, whose parrots perch and chirp, whose voices carry across in speedy Spanish that opens up the world to a better place.

8. Don’t buy a car. Gas costs more than you can even fathom, and there will be so many beautiful palm trees to walk under, so many types of architecture to admire, so many beautiful people to see along the street, that you’ll never notice the difference.

9. Make yourself a resident before making yourself a taxpayer. This order suits all.

10. Ayuntamiento: loosely translated: place of help. Courthouse, registration, school information. You will be guided to one ayuntamiento after another, but eventually, just like all things Spanish, you will arrive just where you need to be: Home.

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¡Viva España!

I came all the way to Spain to have what Americans always want. Granite countertops. Eat-in kitchen. The ability to walk one block and buy fresh fruit, grass-fed beef, and hand-crafted beer. Mariscos that cannot be defined in our American Spanglish.

I couldn’t begin to describe how much this feels like home. How, after four months of turmoil and doubt, I am completely relaxed. We can sit on our balcony all night, watch passersby go to the night club, head downtown… we can look into the courtyard, smell the marijuana, and watch as our new neighbor shows his friend the various pots where he grows it. Somehow, laundry hanging from wires in the place we all share, this feels like home to me.

Don’t get me wrong. It is still, after four days, a tiny bit surreal. I mean, are we driving in roundabouts and searching for two-way streets? Are we really walking on travertine tile sidewalks and watching Spaniards meander by in soccer shirts? Are we ordering tapas and Amstel because we’re on vacation, or are we going to accept that this. Is. Now. Our. Home?

After fourteen years of marriage and nine and a half years of parenthood, we have picked up our family and moved to a country none of us have ever seen. For the most part, we don’t speak the language, though my girls and I like to pretend we do. We disseminate labeling and nod, “Sí, sí,” even if we do not understand. I signed a lease whose specifications I cannot identify, and our plan for Monday is to register as citizens, open a bank account, buy a cell phone plan, and enroll our girls in school. Inestimable for five people sans car, but I think we can make it happen.

If we could, on a whim and a prayer, place ourselves in this city without much of a job, little hope on the horizon, and find ourselves an apartment within twenty-four hours, I think this view of the rising moon between palm trees and clouds, the Citroen cars speeding past and the endlessly open cafes—they will take us where we need to land.

All is well. ¡Viva España!

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Spanish Diet

in all street cafés
freshly prepared mariscos
cheap and delicious

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Streetwise

a memorized map
cannot capture the beauty
of Spain, our new home

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Freshly Made

paella in Spain
palm trees, tavertine sidewalks
worth all the worry

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The Top

Doubt and stress have plagued me for months. You may think I am different from you, a standout among your citizens. But I am just like every other American, fighting my way to the top, working, working, working till there’s nothing left to work for.

There is a difference, though. I am working for a different top, a different experience, one that cannot be achieved by sitting on my back patio and complacently watching my children push each other on the tire swing.

The blood, sweat, and tears I’ve put into my version of the top are not much different, though, than any MBA-proud corporate employee climbing his way up the ladder to the corner office, the brightly lit view of downtown, the paycheck that buys his family all they’ll ever need or want… His presence not included.

I want a top where we’re all there, watching the moon rise in the still-light-at-8-o-clock twilight, our tired eyes too overwhelmed to accept the shift that has moved us from one continent of thought to another.

It may look the same. There are maples and evergreens, dry plains and rose bushes, mountains starving for moisture. Just like home. There’s a Burger King, McDonald’s, Starbucks. They’re right there, along the same boulevard that leads to the king and queen’s palace, the plaza mayor, the Roman built museums and churches. Even along the highway, you might think you’re driving in Kansas, as one wind farm after another pepper the landscape, propellors spinning languidly in the heat that has followed us across an ocean.

Let’s try some fast food, shall we? It’s inside this tiny restaurant with tables on the sidewalk. Tortilla de patatas, sardinas con aceitunes, cafe con leche, langosta pequeña, tastes that pop in our mouths, that burst with whole ingredients our American stomachs can’t quite identify. We will sit for hours, Spaniards sharing their stories, asking about ours, lingering over a meal with so many small courses that we fear it may never end. Each time another platito comes out, we hear, “Muy tipico de España.” I want to say, “Us? We’re very typical of Americans.” But I know it wouldn’t be true.

I didn’t even need to leave the airport to shed, after a walk down marble steps into a heat-filled baggage claim, my typical American view of stress, doubt, fear, loss. We’d been traveling for twenty hours, loaded down with three girls, eight bags, and all our dreams. To move from one gate to another in the Toronto airport, we had to stand in line, fill out declaration forms and get our passports stamped (I thought we were buds with Canada?).

But in Madrid? Six empty windows with sharply-dressed, handsome Spanish police officers stood waiting for our arrival. I swallowed, ready to answer twenty questions, ready to declare all that they could ask of me, ready to complete an array of paperwork with my broken linguistic abilities. Instead? One officer took our five passports, opened them up to the page with the visas, stamped them, handed them back, said, “Bienvenidos a España,” as simply and suddenly as he’d taken them in his hands. Not a question, not a form, not a single complication.

I’m still fighting my way to the top. It may look a little different, linger a little longer on the realm of success as seen by others. But my version of the top began in that moment, the moment I realized that things don’t have to be as complicated as we make them out to be. We could, for a year at least, immerse ourselves in the relaxed Spanish view of the world. Will I be able to reach my dream, to reach for the top? Perhaps, perhaps not. But whenever I feel myself falling off my ladder of success, I will open my passport, look at that stamp, and remember what it is that I came here for.

One Moment at a Time

Well this is it. Today is the day we have been waiting for for months. We’ve packed up, weighed in, taped together, distributed and redistrubuted, and said our last good-byes. We’ve stood in line, ridden on trains, boarded planes. We are on our way, on our way to Spain.

If only I’d be jumping high in the sky like I thought I would be when I imagined this day a year ago, ten years ago, fifteen years ago… instead I am filled with apprehension, so much that it burns my belly a bit more like dread. I want this to be an amazing experience, one in which my children will become fluent in Spanish and taste a culture that is uniquely amazing, so different from their own that they might be different human beings when we return. Is that too much to ask of a six, eight, and nine-year-old?

Not only has the program been cancelled and my position cut to a salary that’s barely a livable wage for one person, but we are also entering a country whose level of unemployment equals the Great Depression. Times are tough, way tougher than anyone in the United States right now could possibly imagine. This will be a year full of challenge and turmoil, poverty and financial choices my husband and I are not accustomed to making. All the same… will we not come out on the other side, penniless and jobless, with a greater appreciation for what we have in this life?

After two and a half hours of restless sleep and airports that will haunt my dreams, I feel I am living in a surrealistic version of reality. Like I am taking a vacation, one in which we will return in a few weeks. How much difference is there, in the grand scheme of life, between a few weeks and a year?

Now we sit in the Toronto airport, our passports freshly stamped with our first port of entry, and my girls’ concerns of the day have moved from wanting breakfast to saying goodbye to family and friends to intense interest in the mostly-unfamiliar plane-riding experience to… wanting to watch Grease on the iPad and pausing at “the butt part.” I listen to them giggle on the gray carpeted floor while Bruce sleeps, oblivious to the bustling of planes, trains, buses, and people, and it all seems so simple: live just one moment at a time. First be grateful that you got the breakfast you wanted, then cry a little bit when you say goodbye, then jump up and down when you board the plane, then find yourself thrilled by the land “where mini people live,” then beg and plead for a dinner you’re so appreciative of when it’s on your plate, and move right on along to the next moment, finding joy in a movie you’ve seen a hundred times.

You never know… the world would be so much simpler, easy to go along with… easy to enjoy. And isn’t that what going to Spain is all about? Enjoying this short life, sucking the marrow out of it until it gives us all we want, all we ask that it offer us, while in the same moment offering up ourselves?

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Small Shadows

on the hill of our last hike,
in sweet drinks at one last happy hour,
their voices and eyes are glazed with joy

somehow they haven’t seen
the hurt hovering around every corner,
their small shadows ghosts to
the darkness they’re blind to

i watch them climb Boulder’s boulders,
skip through the sprayground,
stand fearlessly at trail’s edge,
the steep mountain no match for their courage

if you could gather up their joy,
swallow it with angel’s rays
that stream through Colorado clouds,
if you could see the light they always see

then you’d know–
you’d let their small shadows stomp out
the hurt that hovers,
you’d be free, full of life,
ready to shake up the world.